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  • Writer's picturePascale Marceau

Greenland 2022: Qaanaaq Our Home Base

We spent 4 monts living in the community of Qaanaaq. What a special place.


We were treated to moon settings like this right from our kitchen window!

Qaanaaq is the hub of Greenland's northwest. The main town between Siorapaluk, Qeqertat, Savissivik, Thule Air base and Moriusaq... At just over 500 habitants, it offered us all we needed to stage an expedition from.


This is our house. It is very yellow. Yellow on the outside, yellow on the inside, yellow lighting - that was very appreciated during polar night when there was no sun :) Despite our issues at the start to get some heat going in there, it has grown to be our comfy homebase. It is perfectly located, just a short stroll downhill to the ice where we keep our dog team. You can see our meat box, our dog food storage, our heating oil which required daily top-ups and our iceberg block supply for water.


Where else can you get views like these of frozen icebergs - directly from the living room.

It's always bittersweet to say goodbye. We made good friends, I experienced so much, we learned from the Inuit the beauty in simple living. I am so grateful to have discovered what has gripped Lonnie so profoundly about this place and its people. Every day was packed with fascinating experiences. Of course I hope to come back someday, but one never knows if that will ever really happen. (Well of course if Smith Sound is not frozen for our crossing... well, we will be back sooner than we'd hoped!)













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